faceting machine digital microscope setup

[Faceting Frank]

Got the pavilion of this stone polished, but my plan to go from 3k to 60k using the screen to work with didn’t work. Ok for optivisor/display cabinet quality, but that’s about it.
Had to recut it using 14k and a 10x loupe to get the meet point accuracy I wanted.

[Pro-oz]

And after all that good work Frank, but you'll find a way i'm sure. Was hoping it was going to work out for you.
I have been using 10x loupe for polishing and meets for awhile but think that's because of my eyes.

Stones must have to be extra good for competition, don't think i'm there yet! but will keep at it. Still enjoy cutting out of MB's book.

Cheers

[Faceting Frank]

If you can cut stones out of MB,s books Prooz, then you can easily compete in the annual Gemboree comp. There is an intermediate and open section with quite a few stones to cut in each.

[FlashGP]

Prooz, don’t forget the Novice section of Gemboree, being the only Level 4 comp, you’ll be eligible as a Novice if you haven’t competed before.  This means you can enter any faceting section of Gemboree you want in that circumstance.

[FlashGP]

Hi Frank, I took the clear plastic shroud off my scope, this lets me fill the screen with about 4mm of stone.

The clear plastic shroud just pushes on.

Am getting more practice at the lighting setups to show surface imperfections and meet points.  Have been cutting pale coloured rough so it mostly shows as grey.

Needed to check with the loupe if the TCP meet points were met, but it certainly speed up cutting.  Indexing errors are the bane of my life.  I think I would try to clamp the microscope stand to the faceting head instead of unindexing all the time.

Anyway indexing errors have taught me how to make adjustments on the fly to correct them.

I’ll see if the judge picks up the 1 stop adjustment on my entry to the AFG annual comp.

Anyway, a little more practice with the scope and I think we could write an article on them for Facet Talk.

[Faceting Frank]

I’m happy to contribute to a facet talk with you Gordon. I’ve only ever done one in the past, 228, about the digital height gauge I use to record the position of facets.
Your flexible mast for the scope is the way to go, as long as it does not move out of position. My flexible mast was a failure, because it was made from a 2.5mm thick aluminium plastic-coated wire. It gradually moved the scope out of focus, which doesn’t work.

[FlashGP]

Hi Frank,  I really need a mounting I can raise and lower by up to 50mm.  At present I have a piece of string tied to the middle of the gooseneck to hold a bend in it so it doesn’t spring back.  It is a temporary measure while I work out the best positioning.

I was thinking of tapping the end of a 10 mm rod with a 1/4inch tap and mounting the rod at the back of my bracket in a tube with a lock so I can slide it up and down and lock it in place.



I also added a crude tool carrier for the cam lock key, spacer washer and Allen key to tighten the lap nut, 

[Faceting Frank]

Your flexible stand looks the same as the one I have on my lamp. It stays still once set in position, but I don’t think it’s going to do that with the weight of the scope and its Z axis adjustment on it. I’m working on a more professional looking replacement for that wooded monstrosity stand I have.
Having to un-index during polishing I now don’t work from the cutting instructions anymore, other than looking at the picture and getting the facet angle. I print out the index numbers 36 size and then cut it all up into strips, just having the relevant index numbers in front of me. Since then, haven’t had any stuff ups selecting the wrong index.

[RoughCreations]

I also added a crude tool carrier for the cam lock key, spacer washer and Allen key to tighten the lap nut,

Crikey, why are our machines starting to look like gypsy wagons!?

[Faceting Frank]

This picture shows the design of the scope stand that I will make to replace the wooden contraption I have now. It works in the same manner and will fit to the mast base.

[MakkyBrown]

I've got one of these on the way to use with my camera. Not sure if it would suit your setup. Could be good on the end of the shaft that goes to your scope mount, before the z axis adjustment.  Just the ball mount not the camera holder in link.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002121309495.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.7c154c4d42VIjy

[Faceting Frank]

Not quite like that MB, it has to slide up and down a post as well.

[FlashGP]

The beauty of mounting the scope on the faceting head is that it doesn’t need to be moved when the mast is shifted or angles change.  It only needs to be moved to better view the meet or catch the reflection.

[Faceting Frank]

I can’t mount mine on the faceting head because of the way I’ve built the machine, but I do know what you mean by being able to move it from side to side to catch the light.

[FlashGP]

Hi Frank,

The bulk on mine is mainly the plastic G clamp I am using to clamp it to the faceting head.  I had it lying around from an Ozito flex shaft, it was the table mounting bracket for the hanger rod.  I had to mount it up side down because otherwise the tightening system would have stopped me lowering the quill.  It saved me grilling and tapping a mounting on my faceting head, and gave a convenient spot to locate a small tool rack.

The mounting for the microscope is a 1/4” 20T thread, the same as used for cameras.  All it needs is a piece of 20mm angle 3mm thick tapped  and bolted to the side bearing mount for your faceting head.

But I quite understand where you are coming from.