DIY Cabbing Machine

[xcvator]

Just wondering if anyone has built a 2 or 4 wheel cabber from scratch ? Love to know how,where to get parts,costs, etc

[MakkyBrown]

There are photos of mine in the gallery. I'll find them Far out time flies, uploaded these pics 2014/15.  ps they are easy to build.

[xcvator]

Thanks for that    Did you use corflute for the covers or something else ?

[MakkyBrown]

I used powdercoated alulminium off cuts I had lying around. Shaft is 1.2meters of 25.4mm stainless. Right hand thread(drill/tap) in each end, that way you can put a spanner on each a end and tighten it all easily. All the wheels are held in place by the bolts on each end compressing it all. I'd only put a left hand thread on one end if you were planning laps/polishing pad or a saw on both ends. Two pillow blocks off ebay or aliexpress, aluminium spacers cut from pipe or use PVC, a pulley, from memory 1/2hp motor off ebay. I had a heap of solenoids valves lying around so it got a bit fancy with the switches and sprayers. But works nicely and still going strong.Really easy to make, and good way to use up stuff you have lying around or salvage.
MB

[Bucket]

Now I have cabbing machine envy! You obviously have too much time on your hands Makkie!

[Faceting Frank]

Wow, that's some machine you have there. Cabbing must be your main thing then?

[RoughCreations]

I used powdercoated alulminium off cuts I had lying around.

From the home-made boat or the home-made caravan?

[MakkyBrown]

I used powdercoated alulminium off cuts I had lying around.

From the home-made boat or the home-made caravan?

From the caravan and wardrobe frame leftovers.

[MakkyBrown]

Wow, that's some machine you have there. Cabbing must be your main thing then?

No faceting is definitely winning over cabbing eta on book 4 is early July.
I've used the cabbing machine to make quiet a few knives and it will get a lot more use in the future.
I have basically given up on my Gemmasta faceting machine atm and going ahead building a new one.  Height adjustment and index will be on steppers for speed. I think I can split the 96 index into about 33 steps per index notch which should be fine enough for cheating. I have a nice(hopefully nice) piece of 450x300x12.7mm cast tooling plate on the way to build in on.

MB

[Faceting Frank]

33 steps on a 96 index would be heaps. I built my latest one around a linear bearing on the mast and a digital gauge for recording the height. I found on earlier machines I made that being able to record where the facets were, made it so much easier to go back to them without fear of stuffing them up.

[MakkyBrown]

That is a very nice setup Frank. I've cheated on that bit , will need to make a new plate for the lower end.
I should be able to have a homing function and use steps to measure the height.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32949212504.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.1d704c4dPLPMIr
What did you make the yoke(C section) from and what bearings are you using ?Did you make your faceting head aswell ?
MB

[xcvator]

Now here's a hypothetical question for you guru's.
I have a flat lap machine with acrylic discs with 6mm foam glued on to which I lightly glue wet and dry sandpaper. Now here's the question.
What adhesive would you use to glue diamond powder to a canvas back and how would you do it ?

[MakkyBrown]

It may depend on the grit size a bit. You want to keep the flexibility but still hold the diamond powder. I've used both two pack polyurethane and epoxy paints. You want to keep the paint or resin you use fairly thin so everything still flexes a bit.   
I think there are number options that could be tried. I have thread on here about refurbishing the soft wheels, I try and find it in a minute as it has paint recommendations from others on it.
MB
Edit here it is :  https://aussielapidaryforum.com/forum/index.php?topic=4956.msg45626#msg45626

[Faceting Frank]

Will get back to you on those questions tomorrow Makky.

[Faceting Frank]

That linier bearing rail looks good.
 I made the entire machine out of aluminium, all the bearings are plain ball races, some of them flanged. The spindle base drawing shows 4 tapped holes in the base, I changed that to 3 equally pitched 6mm holes and tapped holes in the table. Between the table and spindle base are three 3mm thick steel washers slightly bent. The master lap is levelled by tightening the 3 bolts.
I never had any luck in being able to get the mast perfectly square to its base, so have a rail on the table to keep the base pointing the same way and levelled the master lap to suit.
Adjusting the quill base to suit the master lap with an adjustable bearing supporting the shaft that the quill base pivots on.
I bought the index wheel and the quill is a collet shaft with a  ¼” chuck.