Recently cut gems (AB Facet Designs)

[mehoose]

I love our local Smokey, beautiful job on these and adore the butterfly.

Thanks, yes I am very happy with the Butterfly, I will definitely do more of these frosted designs. I scored some really nice light coloured Gladstone citrine a few days ago for my collection which should work well with a frost or two.

Don't forget there's a few frosted designs over on the gemology project.
Marco designed the Asahi, Sakura, Star and stripes,
Arya did plumeria(right down near the end of his designs
Egor did Flor
Michael did heart and soul(a cross in a heart)
Our Debs did a Dragonfly
Charles mcCoy did the ribbon
John Biena did Star of David

[RoughCreations]

Just to demonstrate that I also cut stones from time to time!
Recently completed "Starlight Divide" from Book 1.
Brazilian amethyst
15.6 x 7.75 x 7.45mm
6.8ct
Loupe clean
(Available)

[Faceting Frank]

Had to look in the book for that one, never noticed it before. Cut from Brazilian amethyst, that would have cost you a bit.

[RoughCreations]

I saw one recently on Instagram that was cut in Australian sapphire, was interested to see if the design was worth cutting in quartz. I will definitely use it again, it 'divides' in the middle as per the name - a bit like a bow-tie.

[mehoose]

Very pretty!

[RoughCreations]

Thanks. I'm currently in the process of cutting Tiger Trap from Volume 6 in a Tanga garnet.
RC

[mehoose]

  can't wait!

[RoughCreations]

Just finished cutting some more Tanga garnets in ABFacetdesigns. These garnets chip very easily when cutting, brittle - never experienced as bad a nature in a garnet. When I was cutting the table of the Hexamesh, I tried an old worn 600 grit diamond plated lap, the surface chipped immediately, albeit on a very small scale. Back to my ebonite disk after that. Cutting really carefully thereafter I am pretty happy with the results. Both stones are very bright and quite clean and free of visible inclusions.
Both stones available.

Hexamesh
6.0mm across the flats, 5.25mm height
1.7ct
Eye Clean, Available.



Tiger Trap
L 9.75mm x W 6.75mm x H 5.25mm
2.3ct
Eye Clean, Available.

[Faceting Frank]

Nice looking stones RC and a nice clear shade of red. usually they are much darker than that.

[Alaskan]

Tanga Rhodolite is rich - nice. I'm in a sweat over a botched transfer of MB Vol 6 pge 30 supernova. My girdle isn't even and at C3 unsure if the short side of my T will have enough room. If not... back to the girdle to see if I can make more room. It's always something - the challenge - how did my transfer get botched - Patriot 8 T Tool has some slop in all directions & 3 ridge P lines? Adding another lesson to my display of beautiful awshites on the kitchen windowsill.

[RoughCreations]

Tanga Rhodolite is rich - nice. I'm in a sweat over a botched transfer of MB Vol 6 pge 30 supernova. My girdle isn't even and at C3 unsure if the short side of my T will have enough room. If not... back to the girdle to see if I can make more room. It's always something - the challenge - how did my transfer get botched - Patriot 8 T Tool has some slop in all directions & 3 ridge P lines? Adding another lesson to my display of beautiful awshites on the kitchen windowsill.

Just looking at Supernova (Book 1?) - looks pretty challenging. P4 and also maybe P5 ring my 'chipping' warning siren.. I reckon you would have to cut and polish them both with the lap coming towards the facets rather than going away, in reverse direction.
Re: transfer issues - double check there is no old adhesive in the v-groove. What type of dopping material was it?

RC

[MakkyBrown]

RC You shouldn't be chipping much with those resin laps, even the pewter or dark side should be pretty chip resistant.

Would you want an easier crown for Supernova Alaskan ?

[Alaskan]

Today my first cut on c4 c5 at the short end of the remaining crown end will tell if there's enough remaining material for a table... it's no big investment other than time and that's free for me. There's room at the girdle for a bit of fudging and it is that close. The girdle width error after transfer is a mystery - is it possible the ~ bent dop that was noticeable when seeing different V mast height settings was magnified in the transfer? I love this material and the design and yes it probably is about as challenging a design I will tackle but it is already beautiful.

[Alaskan]

Regarding the transfer... (yes Vol. 1) if the moving block with the stone approaches the cupped dop to receive the P is free to pitch/yaw - but the V blocks must meet when tightening the sliding block down? I should be placing the stone in the fixed v block... right? I'm using two part industrial epoxy and it is hard plastic after a day - upon separating the stone a fine tooth saw cut to periphery of the dop is necessary... the epoxy is good stuff. The dop seems most likely imperfect - polish the scrape marks and check gross run out is the plan for evidence... after the Table. Time to feed the dogs - beautiful sparkle with a tint of blue - thanks, guys. Voracious problem solvers - awesome!

PS: What code are you using for your programming - I will get Tom Herbst volumes out and... time flies?

Ardurino... but which board and program?

[RoughCreations]

RC You shouldn't be chipping much with those resin laps, even the pewter or dark side should be pretty chip resistant.

I cut with my Bert Smit Ebonite laps 95% of the time. I only have one resin - the 80# for preforming/rough cutting.
I find with sharp 'keel'-like facets I generally have to polish with the lap in reverse, no matter the lap I use - Battlap, Darkside or even your brilliant pewter lap, and irrespective of the material I'm cutting.
Whilst cutting Hexamesh recently in a brittle Tanga garnet, I was getting tiny little chips on the edge of P4, and to a lesser extent P3 whilst pre-polishing/polishing in a normal forward direction. Those facets are a bit like a narrow keel. I am also cutting a closed-C tourmaline with a long keel. The tourmaline cuts very smoothly - nice material, but on my finest 800 Ebonite lap, and also with all my polishing laps, I still have to cut/polish with the lap in reverse to get a nice sharp, smooth keel. If I cut a keel facet on the trailing edge, chip time, sometimes almost microscopic to see, but they are there. This is not a recent thing, as I have really always struck this, and luckily found a solution that works for me. The classic type of designs for chipping due to keel facets in my smoky cutting experience are the 'pixel' cuts such as Voltolini Desoppo Bar and HTims Bar, and also the Glitter Bar from Book 4.

RC